How to Choose a Roofing Contractor: 7 Things to Check Before You Hire

Hiring a roofing contractor is one of the higher-stakes decisions a homeowner makes. A roof replacement runs $8,000 to $25,000 or more for most homes — and a bad installation can void the manufacturer’s warranty, create leak points that cause interior water damage, or leave you without legal recourse when the contractor is long gone. This guide covers the specific things to check before you sign.

Why Choosing the Right Roofer Matters

Your roof does more than keep rain out. It protects your home’s structure, insulation, wiring, drywall, and everything inside. A failed installation doesn’t always show up immediately — some defects take a season or two to produce visible leaks, by which time the contractor may be unreachable and the warranty may already be in question.

The financial stakes are real. Roof replacements for average-sized homes typically fall between $8,000 and $25,000 depending on material, square footage, and regional labor rates — see our full breakdown of roof replacement costs to understand what drives those numbers. Larger homes, steep pitches, or material upgrades push costs higher. If you’ve already noticed the warning signs that prompted this search — curling shingles, granule loss, or water stains in your attic — you can read more about what triggers replacement in our guide to signs you need a new roof.

The contractor you choose affects not just the installation quality but your warranty coverage, your insurance options, and your legal standing if something goes wrong. Cutting corners on vetting saves nothing.

Verify Licensing and Insurance

Roofing contractor licensing requirements vary by state — some states license roofers at the state level, others delegate to counties or municipalities, and a few have no formal requirement at all. Regardless of your state’s rules, you should request and verify the following before any contractor sets foot on your roof.

Contractor license: Ask for the license number and verify it with your state’s contractor licensing board. Most states have online lookup tools. Confirm the license is active, not expired, and covers roofing work specifically.

General liability insurance: This covers property damage — to your home, your neighbor’s property, or a vehicle — caused during the project. Ask for a certificate of insurance (COI) naming you or your property as an additional insured. Call the insurance carrier directly to confirm the policy is active.

Workers’ compensation insurance: This is the one homeowners most often skip checking, and it’s arguably the most important. If a roofer falls off your roof and their employer doesn’t carry workers’ comp, you may be personally liable for their medical costs and lost wages. Some states allow independent contractors to opt out of WC coverage, but crews working on your roof should always be covered. Ask for the WC certificate and verify it.

Bonding: Some states require contractors to be bonded, which provides additional financial protection if the contractor fails to complete the work or causes damage. Check whether your state requires this.

Check Their Roofing Track Record

Generic advice to “check online reviews” undersells what roofing-specific due diligence actually looks like. Here’s what to do for roofing specifically.

Drive by completed jobs in your neighborhood. Ask the contractor for addresses of homes they’ve roofed in the past 12–18 months within a reasonable distance of your home. Then actually drive by them. From the street you can see: whether the ridge cap is straight and consistently spaced, how the drip edge and rake edge look at the roof’s perimeter, whether step flashing at chimneys and dormers appears tight and properly counterflashed, and whether there are any visible buckling or waviness issues. A sloppy install is often visible from the curb.

Ask about their ventilation approach. Proper attic ventilation extends shingle life and prevents moisture buildup that damages roof decking. A knowledgeable roofer should be able to explain whether your current ventilation is adequate, whether they’ll install or replace ridge vents and soffit vents, and how they calculate the net free area your attic needs. A contractor who brushes past this question hasn’t thought carefully about the system they’re installing.

Ask about tear-off versus overlay. Some contractors offer overlays — installing new shingles directly over the existing layer — as a lower-cost option. Most roofing manufacturers void their material warranties on overlay installations, and overlays can mask decking problems that will cause the new roof to fail prematurely. Ask directly: will this be a full tear-off? If they recommend an overlay, ask what the warranty implications are and get the answer in writing.

Ask about flashing. Flashing — the metal used to seal transitions at chimneys, skylights, dormers, walls, and valleys — is where most roof leaks originate. Many contractors reuse existing flashing to cut costs, but old or improperly installed flashing undermines a new installation. Ask whether they replace all flashing as part of the job, and ask what material they use. Step flashing and counter flashing at chimneys should be new on a full replacement.

Verify local tenure. How long has the company operated under its current name in your market? A contractor who has been roofing locally for 10+ years has a track record you can investigate. A company formed six months ago — or one using a name that’s different from the one on older reviews — warrants extra scrutiny.

Get Multiple Written Estimates

Get at least three written estimates. Roofing pricing varies significantly across contractors even in the same market, and a written estimate tells you whether a contractor actually understands the scope of your project.

What a legitimate roofing estimate should include:

• Shingle brand, product line, and color — not just “architectural shingles”
• Number of squares to be installed (one square = 100 square feet)
• Whether tear-off of existing roofing is included, and disposal fees
• Underlayment specification (synthetic or felt, brand)
• Decking contingency — what they’ll charge per sheet of plywood or OSB if damaged decking is found during tear-off
• Flashing scope — new, reused, or partial replacement
• Ridge cap specification
• Drip edge and ice-and-water shield scope
• Timeline and projected start date
• Payment schedule
• Warranty terms for both materials and workmanship

Red flags in estimates:

• No decking contingency language — damaged decking is extremely common, and a contractor who doesn’t mention it will either leave it in place or surprise you with a large change order
• Vague material descriptions (“standard shingles,” “quality underlayment”)
• Request for full payment upfront — a typical payment schedule is a deposit at signing with the balance due upon completion
• Verbal-only commitments about what’s included
• A significantly lower bid with no explanation — price differences should be traceable to scope differences, not corners being cut

When comparing bids, check that you’re comparing identical scope. A contractor who includes new flashing, synthetic underlayment, and ice-and-water shield will legitimately cost more than one who reuses old flashing and installs felt. Make sure the specs match before deciding a bid is “too high.”

Understand Warranties: Manufacturer vs. Workmanship

Roofing warranties come in two distinct forms, and most homeowners are confused about which covers what. Both matter.

Manufacturer warranty: Covers defects in the roofing materials themselves — shingles that fail prematurely, delaminate, or don’t perform to their rated wind or impact resistance. Standard manufacturer warranties on architectural shingles run 30 years to lifetime for materials, but typically include prorated coverage after the first 10 years under basic warranties. Material warranties generally do not cover improper installation.

Workmanship warranty: Covers the quality of the installation — leaks caused by improper flashing, improperly driven nails, inadequate sealing, or other installation errors. Workmanship warranties are provided by the contractor, not the manufacturer, and vary widely. Some contractors offer one year; quality contractors offer 5–10 years. This warranty is only as good as the company that backs it, which is another reason local tenure matters.

Manufacturer certification programs and enhanced warranties: The major shingle manufacturers offer certification tiers for contractors who meet installation training and volume requirements:

• GAF Master Elite — GAF’s top tier, awarded to roughly the top 3% of roofing contractors. Master Elite contractors can offer GAF’s System Plus and Golden Pledge warranties, which provide 50-year coverage on materials and 25-year coverage on workmanship — meaningfully better than standard coverage.
• CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster — CertainTeed’s highest certification, qualifying contractors to offer the SureStart PLUS warranty with extended material and workmanship coverage.
• Owens Corning Preferred Contractor — Owens Corning’s certified tier, qualifying contractors to offer the Preferred Protection Warranty with enhanced labor coverage.

These certifications are not a quality guarantee — a certified contractor can still do poor work — but they do create accountability (manufacturers can decertify contractors) and they are the only pathway to enhanced warranty coverage. If a contractor claims certification, verify it on the manufacturer’s website before signing.

What voids warranties: Both manufacturer and workmanship warranties have exclusions. Common manufacturer warranty voiding conditions include: installation over more than one existing layer of shingles, improper attic ventilation that doesn’t meet the manufacturer’s specifications, and use of non-compatible underlayment or flashings. Read the warranty document before finalizing your contractor selection — a quality contractor will provide it.

Watch for Storm Chasers and Roofing Scams

Storm chasing is a well-documented pattern in the roofing industry. After hail, high winds, or other severe weather, contractors from outside the region flood affected neighborhoods, going door to door to sign homeowners before local contractors can respond. Some are legitimate companies operating regionally. Many are not.

How to identify storm chasers:

• They knock on your door unsolicited within days of a storm
• They have out-of-state license plates on their vehicles and crew trucks
• They pressure you to sign a contract or an “authorization to inspect” immediately, often claiming the offer expires today
• They offer to “handle your insurance claim” and imply you’ll get a “free roof” with no out-of-pocket cost
• They cannot provide a local business address, local references, or a state contractor license number on the spot
• Their company name and reviews are very recent — formed in the past year or two

The insurance claim problem: In many states, a contractor cannot legally negotiate directly with your insurance company without specific authorization, and some contractors solicit assignments of insurance benefits in ways that can complicate your claim or expose you to liability. Be cautious of any contractor whose primary pitch is about what your insurance will pay rather than what the project involves. You have the right to get your own inspection and choose your own contractor regardless of what an adjuster recommends.

How to protect yourself: If you’ve had storm damage, take your time. Get your own inspection from a local contractor you’ve vetted independently before signing anything. Check that any contractor who wants to work with your insurer is licensed in your state and has a physical local address. Never sign a contract that includes an assignment of insurance benefits without consulting your insurance agent first.

What Your Roofing Contract Should Include

A verbal agreement protects no one. Before any work begins, you should have a written contract that specifies every material element of the project. Here’s what to look for:

• Material specifications: Shingle brand, product line, color, and dimensional type. Underlayment brand and type. Ice-and-water shield scope (eaves, valleys, penetrations). Drip edge gauge and color.
• Scope of work: Number of squares being installed. Confirmation that full tear-off is included, or explicit description of overlay if agreed. Whether all flashing is being replaced or which sections are being reused.
• Decking contingency: Price per sheet for replacing damaged plywood or OSB, and the process for notifying you before proceeding with repairs.
• Cleanup and haul-off: Disposal of old roofing materials, nails, and debris. Magnetic nail sweep of the yard. Dumpster placement if applicable.
• Permit responsibility: Who pulls the permit and who is responsible for passing inspections. In most jurisdictions, the contractor should pull the permit.
• Timeline: Projected start date, estimated completion duration, and any weather contingencies.
• Payment schedule: Deposit amount, milestone payments if any, and final payment due upon satisfactory completion. Avoid contracts requiring full payment upfront.
• Lien waiver: A conditional lien waiver upon final payment confirms that subcontractors and material suppliers have been paid, protecting you from liens filed against your property by third parties the contractor failed to pay.
• Warranty terms: Both workmanship warranty duration and manufacturer warranty documentation to be provided at project completion.

If a contractor resists putting any of these items in writing, that tells you something.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many roofing estimates should I get?

Get at least three written estimates. Roofing prices vary more than most homeowners expect — even between licensed, insured local contractors — and comparing multiple bids helps you understand what the market rate actually is for your project scope. Three estimates also gives you enough data to identify an outlier in either direction without dismissing a legitimate low bid or assuming the highest bid is automatically the best.

How do I check if a roofer is licensed in my state?

Search for your state’s contractor licensing board — most states have an online license lookup where you can search by company name or license number. Verify that the license is active, not expired, and specifically covers roofing or general contracting in your state. Note that licensing requirements vary: some states license roofers at the state level, others at the county or city level, and a few have no formal roofing contractor licensing requirement. If your state doesn’t license roofers, ask for proof of insurance and verifiable local references instead.

What’s the difference between a manufacturer warranty and a workmanship warranty?

A manufacturer warranty covers defects in the shingles and materials themselves — premature cracking, granule loss, delamination. It does not cover installation errors. A workmanship warranty covers the quality of the installation — leaks caused by improper flashing, incorrect nail patterns, or inadequate sealing. The contractor provides the workmanship warranty, so its value depends on that company still being in business and honoring commitments when you need them. You need both types of coverage; neither alone is sufficient.

Should I let a roofer handle my insurance claim?

You can allow a contractor to assist with your claim — providing documentation, meeting with adjusters, or explaining scope — but be cautious about any arrangement that gives them legal authority over your claim. Assignments of insurance benefits (AOBs) transfer your claim rights to the contractor, which can limit your recourse if you’re unhappy with the work or scope. Your best position is to file the claim yourself, get your own inspection, choose your own contractor independently, and keep the insurance relationship in your name. Consult your insurance agent before signing any claim-related document a contractor presents.

Is a roof overlay ever acceptable?

In limited cases — if local code allows it, only one layer currently exists, and you’ve confirmed the decking is sound — an overlay can be a reasonable short-term option. But for a full replacement meant to last 20–30 years, a complete tear-off is almost always the better value. See the tear-off discussion in the track record section above for the warranty and decking implications.

Get Started

Choosing a roofing contractor well comes down to doing the verification work before you’re under pressure. Confirm licensing and insurance, ask the roofing-specific questions about ventilation and tear-off, drive by completed jobs in your area, and get the full scope in writing before any deposit changes hands. If you’re working through an insurance claim, keep the claim in your name and involve your insurance agent before signing any contractor-provided authorization documents.

The best time to vet contractors is before you’re dealing with an active leak or storm damage — but even under pressure, the steps above take a day or two and can save you from a much larger problem. Enter your zip code below to get free quotes from licensed roofing contractors in your area.